Your Heart Won’t Run Out of Love

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Last week, I was asked by one of my readers what my thoughts are about love. The nature of it; how people give and receive it. I’m not entirely sure what qualifies me to answer such a universally pertinent question. Presumably, the fact I write in the romance genre has some bearing on why queries such as this one land in my inbox. The best I can do is offer my perspective based on my own study and experience.

Love is the purest abstract force on the planet. When a person loves with all their heart they will achieve the impossible and the incredible but society has created complicated, and limiting, social constructs around love. When I write my books, I try to challenge some of those constructs. Try to reassure readers that love is worth surrendering to, whatever that looks like for them.

Perhaps the most problematic idea about love is that we only have so much of it to give. That love is a commodity we can measure by the pint and that our quest in this world is to figure out which select few we should offer our love to. Many of us may not even be conscious of thinking this but it is evident in our fear of giving love. If you believe you have an unlimited supply of one thing or another, you don’t mind being generous. As a society we are not generous with love and though we teach children that practice makes perfect, we are afraid to practice the most important thing we’ll ever do.

We don’t set this limit for any other abstract concept. We don’t believe there should only be a certain amount of sadness in us. We don’t believe that there’s a monthly cap on our jealousy or anger. But we do have this shared belief about love and that belief has led to a lack of love in the world we live in because we are convinced if we give too much, our stores will never replenish.

The truth is: your heart won’t run out of love. Your heart is not a well that will one day dry up. Love defies measurement. Logic. Definition. Limits.

In fact, the more of it you give out, the more you are likely to receive. The more likely your imaginary reserve will be renewed.

Most of my thinking about social constructs is inspired by observing the natural world, and whenever I think of a role model for giving love, I think about the apple tree. Tangential as this may sound, I promise there is a rationale. By autumn, all of the apple tree’s fruits have fallen. She’s given everything she has, trusting that in the spring more fruit will grow so she can again offer it all to the world. She gives without reservation in the literal sense. Some of her apples will be eaten and provide nourishment. Some will rot on the ground. The outcome does not dictate her giving and that is something for us all to aspire to. To trust ourselves and our journey enough to give all of our love and let the giving be its own reward.

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My Lessons From Lockerbie

Would you rather burn to death, or drown? Charlotte Brooks asked as we sat cross-legged on the grass near the infant classrooms in May of 1988.

I twisted a sycamore seed that had helicoptered to the ground between my fingers.

I didn’t have an answer.

Not because this was too difficult a question for a six-year old. Imagining how you’d escape if you were trapped in a capsized ocean liner or survive an earthquake with more grace than Charlton Heston was what occupied the minds of most pre-teens in the eighties, thanks to all those 1970s disaster movies finally making it to TV syndication.

I didn’t have an answer because I wanted to know what Charlotte thought. I’m a recovering people-pleaser and back then, even when it came to a discussion of life or death situations, peer pressure had its way with me.

I remember staring out across the Solway Firth, a tidal stretch of water that bridged the tip of England and the rugged Scottish landscape on the other side. On a clear day it felt close enough to touch, if I just reached out far enough.

‘Drown, I think,’ I ventured.

‘I’d prefer to burn,’ Charlotte said, which surprised me.

Living so close to the firth, we had almost daily assemblies instructing us on how not to drown. In the school hall, which smelt always of warm semolina, we learnt how to survive if you got sucked into quicksand, how to alert the coastguard if someone was trapped by incoming tides, and we learned that playing on the salt marshes near Port Carlisle would mean certain death. I didn’t want to drown, in water, quagmire or quicksand, but I’d sort of got used to the idea that if I was going to die any time soon, that was probably how I’d go.

Growing up next to one of the most hazardous stretches of water in Britain, I was no stranger to the idea of the mortal coil. Even before my teacher’s friend fell over a stile on a walk through the fields, and cut his life short with his own shot gun. Before my babysitter got into a car with her boyfriend, who had been drinking, on Valentine’s Day. He drove the car into a local bus stop, killing his fifteen year-old girlfriend who had, just the week before, danced along to my Sinitta cassette around my parents’ living room.

But the deaths I knew of then were accidents born out of the human inability to judge the danger they were in. What I had yet to experience was death by human cruelty.

All that changed on the winter solstice, the longest night of 1988.

That afternoon, Sex Pistols front man, Johnny Rotten and his wife Nora Forster were having a heated argument in their London hotel room. Nora had taken too long to pack, they were going to miss their flight back to New York.

Meanwhile, Motown sensations The Four Tops were in a BBC TV studio trying to win over a Top of the Pops producer who wouldn’t let them record all of their material in one afternoon. Due to the schedule change, the group would miss the Pan Am plane they’d booked to carry them back across the Atlantic.

Actress Kim Cattrall had just finished dubbing a movie: The Return of the Musketeers, directed by Richard Lester. She was Christmas shopping in the West End. Time was running out to catch her flight back to America but she’d forgotten to buy her mother a teapot from Harrods. She decided to change her flight. There was another plane forty-five minutes later.

At 6.25pm, Flight 103 was given permission to leave the runway at London’s Heathrow Airport.

330 miles north, in the small cul-de-sac village of Glasson, Cumbria, the seven year-old version of me was settling down on the sofa with my mother to watch Des O’ Connor Tonight. When I recall this moment  now, I can only see red fairy lights on the Christmas tree in my peripheral vision even though I know from photographs I have seen that they were in fact a mix of red, blue and green. On-screen, Des welcomed viewers in his reassuringly smart tuxedo, complete with black bow tie.

Like most moments that precede unthinkable tragedy, everything was mundane to an almost painful degree.

At 7.01pm, Pan Am Flight 103 approached the south east corner of the Solway Firth. Seven miles from our house as the crow flies. At 7.02 the plane disappeared from radar screens and in an instant all contact with the cockpit was lost.

I knew something was wrong the moment the sound went off the TV. The TV was such a dominant presence in our 1980s living room that any disruption to service was serious business. We were a few years past the power cuts of 1984/85 caused by the Scargill / Thatcher battle over the mines. But living on the outer-rim of civilization, as we did, black outs were a regular feature and contingencies were second nature.

I prepared to make a dash for the white taper candles we kept in the kitchen drawer. But the familiar click of the lights going off never came. The image on the TV didn’t disappear into a void. Des O’ Connor was still on screen. His mouth was still moving but the sound was overpowered by a stern voiceover that apologised for the interruption before reporting that a Boeing 747 had fallen out of the sky and crashed in the Scottish town of Lockerbie, just over the  border, twenty-one miles from where we were sitting.

At the age of seven, I understood the words, but couldn’t visualise what such an event meant in physical terms. Given what I have read since, I can only be grateful my young imagination couldn’t quite grapple with something of that scale.

I remember my mother’s mouth hanging open. She darted into the passage to call my Dad who was working at a bingo hall he owned in Carlisle. He later told me how the whole bingo hall had heard the sirens from the emergency services storming out of the city and the worst they’d been able to imagine was that a train had been derailed.

The bodies of the 259 souls on board hit earth seconds apart, while the mangled corpse of the airplane: Clipper Maid of the Seas, left a 290 ton footprint on Scottish soil, bigger than any dinosaur track found in the Outer Hebrides. In addition to the 259 people who boarded the plane, eleven of the four thousand people living in the small town of Lockerbie were killed by segments of the descending fuselage.

The burning segments of the plane set the whole town alight. The fire brigade had much to do. But the lines of ambulances queued up along the A-road were static and silent. Nurses and doctors had rushed to the scene but nobody on board had survived. After the fact, it was reported that a farmer’s wife in one of the outlying fields discovered one of the flight attendants, still strapped into her airline seat. Somehow, she had survived the explosion on the plane, and the fall, and the impact but died before medical help arrived. Her’s was the last whisper of life aboard that craft.

Crowds of Americans flew to Carlisle that Christmas to identify the bodies of their loved ones, when they all should have been at home opening gifts and cards.

Over the months to follow, the Scottish police conducted a fingertip search across 810 square miles of countryside. It quickly became apparent that the crash was no accident. That somebody had placed a bomb inside a cassette player, inside a suitcase. That the suitcase was on board the flight at take-off, but the owner of the baggage wasn’t.

Most of the passengers were Americans travelling home for Christmas. Thirty-five of them were students from Syracuse University who had been studying abroad in England. Before September 11th, the Lockerbie air bombing was the most deadly terrorist attack on American civilians, and though a man was convicted, and served some time in prison, there is some doubt about whether or not he was the true culprit.

This investigative rabbit hole now leads only to a tangled web of international conspiracy involving names that have begun to fall out of consciousness. Names like Yvonne Fletcher and Terry Waite. There is no real knowing if the truth was ever unravelled.

All I can tell you is my own truth. The truth about why this event is scored deep in my mind, even though we were very much spared from anything other than second-hand grief.

The day after the bombing, my Dad told me that if the plane had exploded a minute earlier, it would have landed on our house. He also told me that if it had been in the air a minute longer, it would have missed the town of Lockerbie and landed in fields. Sparing eleven lives.

Being a self-involved seven year-old, it was my own near miss that stuck with me. And that fuelled the many nightmares in which I fell from the sky in a plane that had been blown apart, like all those poor, innocent people who we mourned, though we never knew them.

For years, I thought that was the lesson of the experience: how fragile life is, how close you can come to the end but for a few trifling details. It was only when I was researching this piece of writing so I might offer the reader something more than the hazy remembrances of a seven year-old that the real lesson emerged.

I heard it in the desperate cries of a woman called Jeannine Boulanger who was captured on film waiting at JFK airport for her daughter Nicole, one of the thirty-five Syracuse students. The footage depicts Jeannine’s worst fears being confirmed. That the flight that had gone down was the one her daughter had been travelling home on. In the footage, Jeannine drops to the floor and cries ‘my baby, my baby.’ It is the sound of desolation in the face of unspeakable cruelty.

And in my tiny, Cumbrian village I’d wound up toe-to-toe with that cruelty. And I’d learnt, though I didn’t know it for some time, that cruelty wasn’t something you could hide from. My father had moved us away from the hard catacombs of Middlesbrough so he could wrap us like dolls in cotton wool. We were more than 200 miles away from the IRA bombings taking place in London and Manchester. But that same cruelty had still landed on our doorstep. There was no tucking ourselves away or turning our back on it. Give cruelty one inch and it will take 270 lives, in an instant.

After all these years, I finally found an answer to Charlotte’s question that smacks of a crudeness only children who believe their end is on some far-off, unknown horizon, are capable of: would you rather  burn to death or drown?

I came closer than I’d like to both those ends before I hit double figures. But the how bothers me so much less now, than the why. More than anything, I want to avoid dying by some nameless enemy who doesn’t know my face, or care to. Who doesn’t know who I’m leaving behind or what my dreams are. More than anything, I’d rather not die by the hands of cruelty, nor would I wish anyone else to.

As sudden and unthinkable as it seemed at the time, the Lockerbie Bombing didn’t happen out of nowhere. Behind the downing of that air craft, there is a black smoke trail of racial superiority, discrimination and greed. And that’s why I’ve come to believe that staring down cruelty, wherever it manifests, is a responsibility for all of us, both in who we elect and what we allow. I believe it’s a responsibility for all of us not to let cruelty become our legacy.

Sources used to write this article:

What really happened on Flight 103
Lockerbie: Case Closed
The Lockerbie Bombing: The Search For Justice
Lockerbie: The Truth
Channel 3 News Pan Am 103
Rejoice! Rejoice! Britain in the 1980s
Kim Cattrall: My Defining Moment

 

Becoming a Poet: My Journey from Source to Mouth

Yesterday, I took this photograph by Cod Beck, a small river that runs through my home town of Thirsk. Twenty years ago, at the age of seventeen, I used to sit by this river and fill notebook after notebook with poems. The flowing of the water aiding the flowing of the ink.

The poetry was terrible. I can assure you this is not false modesty. It was the typical stuff you’d expect from a Sixth Form poet about death and the fleeting nature of youth. But I enjoyed writing it. It was a safe space, a blank space, set apart from the rest of my somewhat stormy life.

Shortly before my eighteenth birthday I stopped going down to the river to write poetry. I had my heart broken for the first time. It was broken cruelly and with very little room for closure on my part. After that, I couldn’t bring myself to write poetry. I couldn’t find the path back to the vulnerability that poetry demands, and I grieved for the precious, unquantifiable thing I knew I’d lost.

I still wrote. Nothing could prevent that, it’s a compulsion. But I wrote other things. Surface things. Articles. Blogs. Reviews. Non-fiction books. Nothing that risked revealing too much about the person behind the pen. Eventually, I wrote two romance novels that were as dry and sarcastic as I was. I was proud of them, and I still am but there is a certain evasive nature to them. My characters are all rather insistent on dodging precisely the same thing the author had dodged for many years: true intimacy, being seen by anybody for who you really are.

Ushering the characters in my romance novels back into an open-hearted lifestyle however, was the first step in me changing my own course and achieving the same. True healing began in the writing of those books, along with a conscious decision to start trusting others in a way I hadn’t for two decades. Within the safety net of a deeply supportive relationship, I was able to explore my romantic and sensual life again and through that self-exploration, I found inspiration for new stories, and the desire to write poetry once more.

In the year just gone I have had my poetry published in several journals and magazines. I’ve performed my poetry, out loud – my whole body shaking with fear – at several poetry events and I stepped in to lead a Poetry Masterclass at Keats House as part of my role at City Lit college. I have allowed myself to be seen. This stepping out of the shadows culminated last week when I published my first poetry chapbook and to my great surprise it topped two Amazon categories in the first few days and has settled itself at the top of the chart for hot new releases in Women’s Poetry.

The reviews have been dizzyingly positive. Did these readers somehow know, somehow see? That the page was a veil and behind it I was just a human woman at once both terrified and exhilarated? Did they sense that publishing this book was the bravest thing I’ve ever done in my life?

Last night I returned to the river. To watch the ducks paddle and squabble over nothing in the early dusk. There, I thought about how the last twenty years had led up to this moment of becoming and how even though life’s river winds and bends in ways we would not choose or expect, there is hope to be had in the idea that all those many currents are carrying us to the place we’re meant to be.

My first poetry chapbook Water Signs is available now. To purchase your copy, click here.

To listen to me read some poems from this and other collections, click here.

A dog blog

We’re one of those families who have always adopted dogs. In fact, any stray with a loyal heart will find a home with us. The door is always open. A hot drink waiting. And, as our Mam seems intent on keeping Nestle single-handedly afloat, you won’t be able to pass over the threshold without being presented with a KitKat.

This is just how we roll.

The dog in the picture above is the newest adoptee in the Cox family residence. Rosie is a beautiful, deeply-sensitive, loving creature. But she, like so many of us, finds it difficult to trust because of the cruelty she has experienced.

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Rosie was rescued from a farm on which all of the dogs were being shot. She watched her owner gun down some of the other animals before she was taken away. She came to us with a hunch in her back. Barely daring to lift her head to make eye contact. For the first few weeks she had to be walked onto her bed at night on a leash because she didn’t understand it was for her. Her joints are bare of fur from where she has slept on hard surfaces for years. She was a work dog. She doesn’t understand what it means to cherished for who she is rather than what she can do for another. She doesn’t understand what it is to truly belong.

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Slowly, she is coming to understand what family is. She is gaining confidence as we show her more and more love. The first time I met her she wouldn’t even lie down on the floor. She wasn’t comfortable enough. She wanted to be ready to run, in case she needed to. To protect herself, like she’s always had to. Over time she will learn that though it’s a valuable skill to be able to protect herself, she doesn’t have to all the time. We will do that, because we love her.

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This honest, loyal little soul who we’ve taken in is a reminder that one of the most difficult tracks any of us walk in this life is that of trust. I empathise with Rosie, some part of all of us does. When we’ve been hurt, trusting others is difficult. Knowing who to give your trust to seems an impossible conundrum.

It seems easier not to. If we don’t trust others, they can never hurt us that way again.

But watching Rosie in her early days with us, cowering away from love, it also reminded me that when we make that choice not to trust, we lose. We hurt ourselves. We miss out on being close to the best people life introduces us to because we never truly take them into our heart.

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Rosie deserves to feel that kind of love. Deserves to know that there are people in the world who will protect her with all their might. That she is precious and wanted and that anyone who deems her expendable or who would exploit her good nature doesn’t deserve her company.

And, I think, we all deserve to know that. If more of us did, there’d be a lot less desperation in the world. And more kindness.

Ghost Signs of Philadelphia Part I

Most people come to Philadelphia hoping to glimpse the Liberty Bell. Or to visit Independence Hall where they might reenact key scenes from National Treasure, and I admit there was a bit of that during my stay (any excuse to do a bad Nic Cage impression). But, given my rather unhealthy addiction to fonts and lettering, I was also taken with the various examples of faded type around the city.

A closer look at the above ghost sign for Reedmor Books on Walnut Street reveals an illustration and a manicule pointing visitors in the right direction. Reedmor Books no longer exists but, whilst I was taking this photograph, a guy stopped to tell me he remembered the store. He bemoaned the fact that a lot of independent bookshops have shut down in Philly. One of which had been turned into a three-storey Walgreens. To quote Anya of Buffy the Vampire Slayer fame: ‘It’s like evolution only without the getting better part.’ 

The nice man chatted very kindly to me for a while but when he realised he’d got into a conversation about fading signage with someone who’d written a book on the subject I saw the little light in his eyes go out. It’s the same look I saw on the faces of one or two eligible bachelors during my twenties who thought they were on a date with a care-free blonde but realised they were actually on a date with an uber-nerd who spent Friday nights researching the history of the Biro pen and organising her stationery.

In the name of British politeness I ceased reciting typographical facts and told him: ‘I must press on with my exploring.’ Walking away, I’m sure I heard just a tiny sigh of relief.

This signage sporting the slogan: ‘Philadelphia’s Finest Apparel Store’ is for a women’s speciality shop, founded in the 1910s by Ralph Blum. The first one in Philadelphia opened in 1920 and was located on the corner of 13th and Chestnut. Trees are culturally and historically significant to Philadelphia and many of the streets are named after the various species.

I was distracted from noting which street this sign was on because in the middle of taking the picture I was asked to donate to a homeless charity. Which I did. And had a lengthy chat with the guy collecting who, like everyone I met in Philly, was ultra-friendly. From the partial type all across this building, I gleaned this was signage for an old copy / printing / photography place.

I love the seedy sound of ‘Chicks Bar & Backroom Cafe’ (because I’m wholesome like that) but this now-closed eatery on 7th Street seems to have had several incarnations. According to its online review history, one of those incarnations was a rather classy-sounding wine bar. Not even sure they would’ve let me in wearing my trainers. Still, though the building currently seems to be between owners, this wonderful typography survives.

The first McDonald’s Playland was opened in California, 1973. I grew up, like most kids in 1980s Britain, idolising American, McDonald’s-infused culture. This is a little reminder of just how cuddly and child-friendly the packaging was on all those burgers; full-fat drinks and fries. So glad that twenty years later we’re not suffering an obesity crisis. Oh… wait.

If you enjoyed this post you might also enjoy my book Fading London: The City’s Vanishing Ghost Signs.

Built to serve: a love letter to the lighthouse keepers

This post was inspired by my visit to the National Lighthouse Museum in Staten Island, New York.

George Bernard Shaw said lighthouses were built to serve. What about the lighthouse keepers, then? They served not only locals and sea-farers but the very lighthouses themselves. They sat awake in the bleakest, starless hours while all others slept, and dreamed of grander destinies.

A life of such servitude comes at a price. It is lonely. Others don’t always understand the desire to give and look for motive where there is none. Interpret humility as lowliness and wonder why a person would choose that over power. Such minds will never understand that the most powerful act anyone can carry out in this bewildering universe, is to give.

Most lighthouse keepers were men. The women who took up such posts were typically those who had never married or were widows. Looking at their pictures mounted on museum boards, I wonder if those friendless men and women ever invited broad-shouldered sailors into their sleeping quarters during the wild, windswept hours before daylight broke once more over the horizon.

I wonder if they ever wanted to feel something other than froth and sea spray against their skin. If they yearned to be lit only by the shine of a lover’s eyes for once. Or if they resigned themselves to the fact that the moment they took up their station at the top of the tower, they had committed their whole being to the ocean and would never know another master.

Even in the modern world, we are all slaves to something. Smart phones. Alcohol. Sugar rushes. Nicotine. Diet routines. If one were to choose an overlord of their own free will, there are much worse prospects than the ocean. She who is bound to carry out the moon’s bidding.

Yes, the salty waves are merciless at times. Cold. Murderous even. But they are also a source of endless kaleidoscopic beauty. Perhaps most importantly, despite her tides, the ocean is one of the most constant forces we know. She remembers our beginning and will witness our end. In an existence that churns just as vigorously as the North Sea on a grey February day, it is heartening to think that even when we are long gone something that once touched us will live on. I expect the lighthouse keepers understood this idea only too well.

A hike to Heptonstall, visiting Sylvia

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For our second wedding anniversary the Hubster and I spent a night away in Hebden Bridge, Calderdale.

Until my better half mentioned it, I hadn’t given any thought to the fact that Plath was buried in the next village. I was too distracted by the glint of the canal and the gritty texture of the buildings. But my husband knows Plath is one of my literary heroes (it’s no coincidence I wrote my own story about an Esther in New York) and he had a premeditated pilgrimage to Plath’s grave penciled in the following day.

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I’m using the term ‘hike’ in the title very lightly. The walk from Hebden Bridge to Heptonstall is not at all far, but since Hebden sits in the bottom of a valley, the walk is all uphill. About half way, you’ll pass the small Methodist graveyard pictured above that overlooks the village below.

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It dawned on me as I walked towards Plath’s burial site that for all I’d read of and about her, I had no idea why she was buried in Heptonstall. Hughes was from Mytholmroyd which is very close to Heptonstall and his parents lived in the parish. Sylvia Plath did visit her in-laws just after she married Hughes but I’m struggling to find any deeper connections with Heptonstall and Plath herself (if you know anymore please tweet me). Plath’s burial place seems  more related to her husband than her own identity, an issue which has caused a great deal of anger among fans of the famous novelist and poet. 

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The churchyard at Heptonstall actually houses two separate churches. One, a ruin that began decaying after a major gale in 1847 and a new church built to replace the one that was all but destroyed by the weather.

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Some of the remaining gravestones lying on what would have been the floor of the church are still legible even though the church was founded in the 13th Century. The ornate nature of the typography is just breathtaking.

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Even if the main point of your visit to Heptonstall is to visit Plath’s grave, it would be criminal to pass so close to this beautiful relic and not take a few minutes to roam around what remains of its former glory.

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In a separate graveyard, near Back Lane, you will find Sylvia Plath’s grave. Don’t do what me and the Hubster did and rock up without any information as to the grave’s whereabouts and hope for the best. You will end up, as we did, praying you have enough battery left on your phones to bring up the stone’s precise location.

Finding Plath’s grave is actually very easy if you’re organised. Open the gate and walk straight ahead with the gravestones on your right. When you get about three quarters of the way across the cemetery, look right and you should see a small trail through the grass, walked by many others who have come to visit the site. It will lead you to what you’re looking for.

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Alongside the flowers brought by other visitors, someone had left a small pot containing pens and paper. Something had been written on the paper but it seemed inappropriate to read it. Even if it had been left in a public place, it was likely a very personal message.

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The epitaph on Plath’s grave is a quote from Hindu scriptures, though it reminds me very much of the kind of imagery seen in poems like Lady Lazarus.

Looking back on these photographs now, it seems perhaps a little odd that I spent a portion of my wedding anniversary in a cemetery. The Hubster and I are both big Buffy fans but this may have been taking things a bit too far. Still, I’m  glad I visited Plath’s resting place. Her poetry has, on so many occasions, given me strength, perspective and solace. Though perhaps few would think to turn to her verse for any of those things.

I was struck by a strange sense of peace to see for my own eyes where her body ended up, and there was a comfort afforded to know for myself just how beautiful a place it was.

Westway Diner 9th Ave, NYC

Whilst researching my novels Starlight in New York and Sunrise in New York, I reveled in a two-week tour of New York City’s finest diners. It was important, you understand, to make sure I had the details just right. The sounds, the smells, the tastes of everything that was bad for me on the menu.

What follows is an extract from my travel journal written on November 2nd 2015 when I visited The Westway Diner.

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The Westway Diner on 9th Avenue, just north of 43rd Street, is a neat oblong decked out in shades of rhubarb and custard. The lighting fixtures look 1970s by design. Large, circular bulbs, the colour of terracotta and mustard, suspended from the ceiling tiles. Liquor bottles and upturned Martini glasses are stacked behind the cash register, and all the staff wear black.

Faux leather booths promenade down the centre of the restaurant. They’re filled with families and friendship groups who laugh, and tell stories about their day-to-day lives.

I sit in the corner on a table for one near a man who mutters show tune lyrics to himself.

Though Halloween came and went three days ago, spiders still dangle from the ceiling and the spooky drawings graffitied across the front window in the spirit of All Hallows Eve have

yet to be washed away. There’s a pleasant buzz in the air but this isn’t a tourist extravaganza like Ellen’s on Broadway. Here, locals loll about, chomping on omelettes and pancakes. Dressed in tracksuits and sneakers; jeans and sports T-Shirts.

One older man in a baseball hat and lightweight anorak joins another. The fella already sitting at the table doesn’t even look up to acknowledge his companion. He waves his hand, holding it up, while his eyes and his pen stay fixed on his paper. The guy in the anorak starts talking but still his friend doesn’t raise his head. He offers only the occasional side-ways glance to make it clear he’s listening even if he is, at the same time, scratching the side of his jaw over some headline in the news.

A band of off-duty cops enter the diner. They order fried breakfasts while Big Yellow Taxi by Joni Mitchell plays out in the background.

If you’d like to read the books inspired by this travel journal, you can find them here.